The trick is to have the pressure wave arrive back at the cylinder right as the valve opens, achieving the densest possible air mixture passing into the combustion chamber picture a high-pressure standing wave right behind the open intake valve. So far the check engine hasnt come on, but Im giving it about 48-72 hours before it actually comes back on, but if it doesnt then I fix the problem for the time being. The flapper motor as you call it passes no air, only controls the intake butterflies themselves. Problem is, all that crud then goes straight into your engine which is less than ideal. Perhaps if one side is still working, it's the side that's too rich. Always run tier one gasoline like Shell or Chevron to reduce the buidup of deposits.
The second is because the interior of the manifold is caked in carbon buildup and crud that keeps the flaps from moving smoothly and stuff starts breaking. On the other hand, the manifold airflow control device largely regulates how fast the manifold fills up with air. I suppose one could replace the front vacuum actuated pivot arm with the upgrade part without removing the intake bit that would require removing the secondary air pump and cutting out the engine lift eye in front of the intake which I would not recommend. The linkage attaches to the housing butterfly plate levers. The motorized actuator houses internal switches to provide feedback to the Powertrain Control Module , indicating linkage and plate position. I can pull mine off and take pictures of all the steps if you'd like, my Cobra is down right now anyhow waiting on a Koni shock rebuild.
You can try cleaning the manifold flap. This is done to avoid unnecessary repairs and wasting time and money. Step 4 If the scanner can monitor live data streams, use it to monitor the sensor signal voltage as the control flaps are opened manually. Check all your air intake pipes and hoses by bending and flexing them to make sure there is no crack letting unmetered air getting in behind the mass airflow sensor, and change your spark plugs. The original flap linkage ended up being completely in tact, and as I separated the links, the culprit was immediately evident. When these variable manifolds get gummed up, the plastic actuators get stuck or break. The only way to postpone buildup is to use quality oil such as changed every 5k miles, and keep your system in good shape.
Make sure you have a wad of paper towel stuffed in each other port that you are not blasting, and keep another big wad in your other hand positioned right over the port that you are blasting to catch most of the stuff that comes out. The intake runner is the tube going into the cylinder head that the intake air travels down to get to the cylinder. We have two options for you, the first is a repair kit that will only fix the fault that has to do with a weak point outlined in this article. The scanner will display a steady voltage which should agree with the at-rest value in the manual , when the control flaps are in the at-rest position, and the increase in the signal voltage or decrease, depending on the application , should happen smoothly as the flaps are opened to the fully open position. The two smaller valves control the inner tumble flaps. The likely failure of the valves is due to the internal parts of the manifold being both old and brittle, as well as gummed up due to gunk buildup on the various moving components, causing them to hang up and stick and eventually break.
Just be wary that many of the plastic connections typically vacuum related can be brittle. We carry a high-strength aluminum version that snaps right on. I can get the codes for the 3 of those issues but if anyone can help troubleshot or diagnos the first issue that would be great. If you truly have a broken manifold and need a replacement, we can definitely supply this. Step 3 If the code returns, reconnect the wiring, and prepare to test the operation of the sensor. Other parts can fail as well, including the Mercedes inlet manifold flaps, the actuator mounting arms and the vacuum diaphragms.
Solvents can be used to clean the oil crud, but be careful not to damage the plastic or rubber seals. The codes will each have their own freeze frame data which indicates the condition the vehicle was under when the code was set. The intake manifold sounds to be the likely culprit, but often my experience with these matters yields something totally out of left field to be the actual cause, like a problem with the secondary air pump or a bad tank of fuel damaging the fuel system. All I know is that if this doesnt work out the way hope it does this weekend then Im gonna have to pull the intake off to clean the runners. This can lead to other Mercedes intake manifold problems since the resistance on these components against the manifold wall will continue to increase unless you thoroughly clean the manifold out. Does the 2013 glk 350 also suffer from these symptoms? They are mounted on the end of the intake manifold and control runner length.
I try to help any way I can, and I am glad people can find the eEuro blog easily and be educated and inspired for the sake of our vehicles and sanity. We offer kits that include the one-time-use aluminum bolts as well as the one time use metal crush gaskets. Compression test along with ignition testing, smoke test to check for vacuum leaks, new valve covers and gaskets, sensors tested with no issues and they cannot seem to come up with a solution. Replace the filter element rather than attempt to wash or clean it. If the intake manifold runner flaps fail engine damage may ensue.
However, they were not involved in the repair. The pressure wave will ricochet back up into the intake manifold until it hits the back, where it will bounce back down the runner. He said the only fix for the problem is to replace the entire manifold. If you look at the throttle body blade think of it 4 times attached to the same shaft in a row. It came back with a P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire and P2006 Intake Manifold runner stuck closed. Turn ignition on, pull the vacuum pipe off before the N239 valve, pull the vacuum pipe off the manifold flap actuator and blow down the first pipe. While not an official recommendation, I think Seafoam might be worth a shot.
So, if you have an engine equipped with one of these manifolds, start saving up because these Mercedes intake manifold problems could happen to you. These valves are intended to allow air to flow only in one direction; therefore, if the vacuum drawn on these check valve decays even in the slightest degree, replace that check valve. The aluminum arm is a great quick fix lightyears easier than replacing the entire manifold , but the only way to really get this car back into perfect running shape is to plop a new manifold on. Take a look and see if there is a broken arm on the side of the manifold, mentioned in this article. Labor prices vary far too much to be able to accurately quote here. On these applications, most of the components are made from plastic and rubber, neither of which is designed to withstand heat, vibration, and high under-hood temperatures for years on end without failing. The latter being the easiest of the tasks,, of course.